Tenerife - a trip worth taking

For everything, there is a first time. Having already cycled on Gran Canaria several times, I found myself for the first time on Tenerife. The reason? The Vuelta al Teide. A Granfondo with 170 km and 4,500 meters of elevation gain, scenically probably unique. Nothing I had ridden up to that point could compare.

But before I delve deeper into the Vuelta, first a brief detour into the history of this Canary Island. Please don't complain, after all, it's important to fulfill an educational mission.
Furthermore, the following will make an appearance: banana plantations, Martians, barraquitos, and whales that couldn't care less about tourists. And why the idea of climbing a volcano by bike is not as silly as it might sound, we will also discuss.

Tenerife, the largest of the Canary Islands, was formed over 10 million years ago through intense volcanic activity. The Pico del Teide, Spain's highest mountain at 3,718 m, dominates the island with its powerful presence. Even today, the rugged volcanic landscape bears witness to its origin beneath the seabed.
The climate on Tenerife is mild year-round, influenced by trade winds and the cool Canary Current. This creates a climatic division: the north is wetter and greener, while the south is drier and sunnier. Combined with the pronounced topography, this leads to several distinct altitude and vegetation zones – from the dry coast to humid laurel forests and extensive pine groves, up to the subalpine zone in Teide National Park.

The Guanche, the indigenous people of Tenerife, likely originated from North Africa and were brought to the island as slaves by the Romans. They lived in caves or simple dwellings and skillfully utilized the island's natural resources. Contact with the other Canary Islands was rare, as they had no seaworthy ships.
When the Spanish arrived on the island at the end of the 15th century – by which time America had already been “discovered” – the Guanche fiercely resisted. Particularly in the mountains, intense fighting took place before Tenerife was finally incorporated into the Kingdom of Castile in 1496.

The economic development of Tenerife was heavily dependent on exports for a long time. In the first centuries after the conquest, sugarcane and later wine dominated, particularly the so-called Malvasía wine, which was exported as far as England and even mentioned in Shakespeare's plays.
In the 19th century, wine was replaced as the main source of income by the cochineal insect, which was used to produce red dye and was cultivated on prickly pear cacti.

Later, banana plantations followed, which remain important to this day. The Canary Island banana is smaller, sweeter, and more aromatic than many imported bananas and is mainly exported to Spain and Europe. Tomatoes, avocados, prickly pears, citrus fruits, flowers, and tropical fruits such as mangoes and papayas are also important agricultural products of the island. In recent years, the significance of wine production, goat cheese, and aloe vera products has grown in both local and international markets.
Today, tourism is the most significant economic factor in Tenerife, but agriculture remains visible and shapes the landscape in many areas.

Tenerife also has a lot to offer in terms of culinary delights: The cuisine is simple, down-to-earth, and makes use of local products. Typical dishes include Papas Arrugadas, small, wrinkly salted potatoes with Mojo - a red or green garlic sauce. Accompanying these are goat cheese, grilled fish like Vieja (parrotfish) or tuna, and hearty stews such as Ropa Vieja or Puchero Canario.
Another highlight is the Canary Island Gofio, a roasted grain flour that was already used by the Guanches – today it is found in soups, desserts, or as a nutritious side dish.

Although Tenerife is not a classic coffee region, similar to the area around Agaete (Gran Canaria), Canary Island coffee is grown here. However, much more widespread is the Barraquito, a sweet, multi-layered coffee with milk, liqueur, milk foam, cinnamon, and lemon zest – almost a dessert in a glass that everyone should try.

The Teide National Park forms the geological and symbolic heart of the island. It spans an area of almost 19,000 hectares and is located at altitudes between 2,000 and 3,718 meters.
In this seemingly inhospitable highland desert, plants such as the bright red Tajinaste or the yellow-blooming Teide broom, which are unique to this area, flourish in spring. The lava landscape, bizarre rock formations like the Roques de García, and the clear, dry air have attracted both artists and scientists alike. Alexander von Humboldt was overwhelmed by the richness of plant life, the painter Óscar Domínguez found surrealistic inspiration in the landscape, and many travelers describe Teide as a place from another world.

Particularly interesting for amateur astronomers and those who aspire to become one is a visit to the observatory on Mount Teide. Tenerife plays a significant role in the world of astronomy and space research – especially for solar observation and as a testing ground for Mars rovers.
Above the clouds at an altitude of around 2,400 meters lies the Observatorio del Teide in the Las Cañadas del Teide National Park. It is one of the most important solar observatories in Europe and is operated by the Instituto de Astrofísica de Canarias (IAC). The dry high-altitude air, low light pollution, and clear nights make the location ideal for sky observations.
Numerous telescopes and measurement stations are located there, including those for solar research, infrared, and radio observation. The Teide Observatory is closely connected with the Roque de los Muchachos Observatory on La Palma – together, they are among the world's leading facilities.

Tenerife's volcanic landscape – especially the barren, rocky zone around Mount Teide – is considered an ideal substitute for Mars: dry, reddish-brown, rocky, and sparsely vegetated. For this reason, the area is used by space agencies like ESA to test Mars rovers and other technologies under realistic conditions.
Since these are research projects, the Mars test areas are not open to the public. However, multilingual observatory tours take place from Monday to Saturday. For astronomy enthusiasts (myself included), it's practically a must. You can find all the information on the official homepage.
Unfortunately, due to a lack of time, there was no opportunity to participate in a tour – another reason to return to Tenerife.

For road cyclists, Tenerife offers perfect conditions: year-round mild temperatures, reliable weather, and spectacular routes with up to 2,200 meters of elevation gain in one stretch.
Many professional teams train here, especially during the winter months and as preparation for a Grand Tour.
Classic climbs lead from places like La Orotava, Vilaflor, or Santiago del Teide up into the national park. Those cycling here pass through various vegetation zones within just a few hours, riding through forests, volcanic landscapes, and sometimes even above the clouds. Challenging climbs, long descents, and an increasingly good infrastructure for cyclists make the island one of the best road cycling destinations in Europe.

The main season for hobby cyclists is from early November to late April. While warm and dry weather can always be expected in the southern part of the island during this time of year, it can get chilly and occasionally rainy in the north. Therefore, it’s always advisable to carry a warm piece of clothing or a rain jacket.
This is especially true if you’re heading to elevations above 2,000 m. While the temperatures in the national park above the clouds are pleasantly warm, during the ascent and descent you may pass through cloud layers where temperatures can rapidly drop from over 20°C to 0°C. Of course, this is only for a short time, but better to have one extra vest than too few.

While the southwest of the island is mainly shaped by tourism, the majority of the locals live in the north and northeast of Tenerife.
In the capital Santa Cruz de Tenerife, around 200,000 people live, and almost as many again in the surrounding suburbs. Accordingly, you have to expect more traffic there. In the south, on the other hand, you encounter very few cars, and smaller, less busy roads are more the rule than the exception.
Personally, I prefer the north of the island. But we were also lucky with the weather and spared from rain. Road traffic, even in the north, as almost everywhere in Spain, is very considerate when dealing with cyclists. As long as everyone gives each other enough space, there is hardly any friction.

As always, as a cyclist, you face the choice of exploring the island on your own or, as in my case, being introduced to its history and culinary delights by professionals and guided to the most beautiful roads of Tenerife.
Especially on a first visit to such a multifaceted island, it’s easy to get lost in the seemingly endless possibilities and perhaps pass by dreamy spots, nice cafés, or restaurants without noticing. It’s quite a shame because your own research can never be as thorough as that of local experts.

Right at 7 a.m., the starting signal is given in Puerto de la Cruz. At this time, the sun is still hiding behind the horizon. Initially, the route undulates out of the city. The pace is already high but still manageable. It heads along the coastal road towards the west.
The first climb, on paper, seemed not particularly steep at 10 km with an average gradient of 4-5%. However, it includes both flat sections and descents, which means significantly steeper ramps than the average gradient suggested. Given the challenges still to come and my chronic as well as acute lack of training, I let the first group go and find my own pace.
In the middle of the climb, the sun rises. The view of the coastline is beautiful.

Having conquered the first climb, a not-too-difficult descent follows down to Icod de los Vinos. To be really fast, you have to work hard and accelerate out of every corner. However, you shouldn't let yourself be tempted to waste energy during the descent. The temptation to catch up with the group again was, as always, far too great for me.
Once at the bottom, the next climb towards El Tanque begins, about 6 km long with an average gradient of 5.6%. The temperature is still pleasant, the group has formed, and we head into the next descent at a manageable pace.

Here, the road surface deteriorates for the first time. There's no reason to take unnecessary risks; on the contrary: the view of Garachico is fantastic, truly breathtaking.
After a total of 55 km, the first proper flat section leads into the next 11-km climb with just under 6%. It's funny: what I would already call a real mountain back home is nothing more than a small hill on the elevation profile of the Vuelta al Teide.

For the first time, we catch up with cyclists – they had already overestimated themselves here. Some others fall back. The group continues relentlessly.
After a short counter climb, the first real endurance test of the day begins, the climb to Masca. Only 4 km long, but with a steep incline of 11%, some flat sections, and ramps well over 20%.
From here, everyone sets their own pace. My legs still feel good, the pedaling is smooth, and the view is one of the most beautiful in all of Tenerife.
After a short up and down, we finally reach the most dreaded climb of the day – the ascent to Teide.

Approximately 1,350 meters of elevation gain over 24 km must be conquered. It’s not a truly difficult climb, but due to its length and considering the elevation already covered, it’s very exhausting – especially mentally. The road always goes straight ahead, and the rhythm is rarely broken. You feel as if you’re on a route directly to the heavens.

While the route initially passes through shady laurel forests, it becomes increasingly dry and hot as the elevation increases. By the time you reach the pine forest zone at the latest, the vegetation becomes sparse, the landscape rougher, and the constantly shifting wind stronger. From here, it gets very tough.
I made a miscalculation and was already without energy gels and with only a half-full water bottle halfway up the climb.

Finally reaching the end of the climb is far from the end. Once in the national park, the route follows the edge of the caldera; always looming close: the summit of Mount Teide. The scenery is fantastic, making you feel like you're on Mars, and it seems as if the volcano erupted just recently.
To finish, with still strong winds, there are nearly 8 km of climbing left, followed by a short descent and across the timing mat.