Lake.Bike Villach

Swiftly, the stylus glides over the brown, curved surface. Straight line to the right, slanted downwards, another diagonal from the opposite end to the thus created tip. Then follow small arcs. One, another; after a brief repositioning of the hand, arc number three, four, five.
With practiced movements, Mona conjures one of her artworks onto the egg placed in front of her. Not too deep, so the shell remains intact. Not too shallow, so everything is clearly visible. Then the good piece, along with several other individual creations, goes into the egg cooker.
"Here, for you!" the 29-year-old hands the perfectly soft-boiled masterpiece to Lukas with a beaming smile across the breakfast table a short time later. "So you can at least get your ice cream."

To better understand this gesture, you need to know: The day before, we had toyed with the idea of visiting the soft ice cream maker Millonig, a regional celebrity based in Techanting. However, to Lukas' (mostly feigned) disappointment, we had dawdled too long on the trails. Whether we'll make it today remains to be seen.
With loving handwork, the junior boss of the Theresienhof, our Lake.Bike Basecamp in Petschnitzen near Lake Faak, has already conjured a perfect soft ice cream miniature onto the breakfast egg for Lukas. Just as she and her mother Brigitte prepare a special start to the day with much heart, taste, and a good portion of artistic talent for their guests every morning.

Already this brief localization promises plenty of variety and worthwhile surroundings for potential Lake.Bike guests.
It becomes endlessly fun when you consider that shuttle services can take bikers from here to there on request; when you know that bike buses operate to four destinations, including the Italian Tarvisio and Slovenian Bled, making a detour for a really good coffee easily doable even for less trained riders – especially since the bus ticket is significantly cheaper with the Erlebnis CARD.
The S-Bahn transports people in possession of this guest card from the Villach region for free; only the ticket for the bike needs to be paid for here.

And for those who actually came for swimming or hiking but suddenly feel like mountain biking after seeing some well-equipped guests, there are numerous shops and rental services that are happy to help with the appropriate material. This is also the case at the Pumptrack in Drobollach, the latest and quite impressive attraction in its dimension.

Mona naturally had the recently opened, 4,000 square meter facility at Soccerzone near Panorama Beach on the list of things she wanted to show us during her Faaker See highlights tour.
But for now, we moved classically pedaling instead of trendily pumping. Because although both lakes have a respective epicenter in terms of built trails, where a dense network of paths is concentrated in a small area, particularly in the Trailcenter Faaker See, some worthwhile options are also a bit more scattered. So, if you want to reach them, you have to pedal – apart from the gondola for the downhill from Gerlitzen, there are no ascent aids for bikers in the region anyway.

Through the NaturAktiv Park Aichwald with its lush greenery and the Worounitza, one of the three streams that feed the Faaker See, we made our way through residential areas and light forests towards Kopein. This small, slightly elevated hamlet is the starting point and namesake of a 1.1 km long singletrail of medium difficulty in the northern foothills of the Mittagskogel.
Far too quickly, the natural classic, for which Lake.Bike project manager Andi Holzer once had to obtain the signatures of 98 (!) landowners, slipped under our tires. Presented in 2016 with almost two kilometers of total length, nature has reclaimed the upper segment, including the dramatically seeming streambed crossing, one too many times.
A short "Yay!" from photographer Erwin, and the now part 1, a relatively straightforward, wooded corridor through the still quite crumbly-loose limestone and dolomite rock of the Karawanks, was completed. An amused "Whee!" from Lukas, and the more playful second part with a few low berms, fun jumps, and occasional roots was already history.

From the spacious terrace of this mountain restaurant, nestled into the northern slopes of the Karawanken and known for its game specialties, one enjoys a fantastic view over the Villach Basin: from the Finkenstein Castle Arena across the Gail Valley to the Dobratsch; or from the district capital across Lake Faak to the Gerlitzen and the northwestern adjoining, even higher Nock Mountains.

More important for our purposes than the panorama in front of the house, however, was what was happening behind the Baumgartnerhof. In 2019, what is now the heart of the Faaker See Trail Center was opened there: the trails on Baumgartner Höhe, the former private ski area of the mountain inn.

With the two flow trails Flowgartner and Lowgartner – as a tribute to the open-minded landowner, many of the paths bear the half Baumgartner in their name – everything started five years ago. This made up over three kilometers of family-friendly, fluid marble run fun garnished with unique views of the Drautal and the lake.
The following year, the first difficult forest trail, the hand-built Blairwitch, followed; rooty, rocky, fun, narrow, and in the lowest part, heart-pounding close to the Rotschnitzabach, another tributary of Lake Faak.

Up to this point, the internationally renowned park designer Cody Ferris-Heath and his Innsbruck trail-building crew were responsible for the design and execution. And the planning for further expansion also came from Trailtech.at.
However, the digging was soon taken over by the now well-trained locals. And since then, construction on Baumgartner Höhe has been faster than the tourism association can print updated trail maps or set up comprehensive overview boards.

Linkgartner, Ffargartner, Airgartner, Sidegartner … the more extensively we studied the map images, the more our heads spun. And the more often we returned to the central parking lot in front of the inn, the clearer it became that Baumgartner Höhe, with its now widest range of offerings, can attract and excite mountain bikers of all kinds.
There were 14-inch kids pedaling next to retirees on the most modern e-MTBs. Trail-affine dads pulled their perfectly equipped kids behind them on tow ropes, a mom sped through the curves with a front child seat from which there were squeals of delight. Couples in sneakers explored on not-so-new hardtails what is nowadays understood by off-road cycling. And in between, the youths of the Austrian Cross Country National Team were zooming up and down for technical training.

Speaking of up: To get up the mountain to the trail entrances, in addition to two initially quite steep gravel roads, there has been an uphill trail since 2023, the Upgartner.
With a pleasant incline and many, sometimes slightly tighter curves, it winds its way up through the area, granting nice insights into the further trail offerings from Com- and Shortgartner to Sisgartner to the Jumpgartner with its really mighty-looking tables, step-ups, and shark fins. And because we had arrived with our cheat bikes, there was also enough leisure on the way up to enjoy the panorama.

In the spirit of trail progression, Mona recommended the red Liftgartner after the two blue flow trails. Already somewhat narrower and interspersed with stones here and there, it also awaited with some steeper sections.
Not a bad warm-up for the Flowduro, an even narrower, more natural curve delight, for which proper momentum is sometimes needed for smooth completion.
As a crowning finale, we dared to take on the somewhat dark black Sengartner after the aforementioned Blairwitch had posed no problems—and would have gladly turned back at times if the slope had allowed it. Created under the aegis of Villach's ex-downhiller Matthias Stonig, this wild and narrow old-school offering winding through the forest included sections like the "Larch Chicane" or the immediately following rootstock growing across the entire path width, which at least made us hesitate or even left us completely clueless regarding line choice and coping strategy.
For those who experience the same: right next door, you can redeem your biker honor on the equally narrow, steep, and tiered turns of the Blackgartner.

After this endorphin rush, a bit of catching your breath and rolling felt quite good. Over the Turbine Trail, a short, flowy S2 with numerous berms and tables, which primarily connects to the Latschacher Trail, we reached the Altfinkensteiner Straße and, following the transfer signs, soon turned right towards the Samonigg Trail.
Correctly, it should indeed be "upwards," because anyone who wants to enjoy the fantastic view from the transmitter above the Samonigg farms must first head skywards. Almost a bit overwhelmed by the suddenly unfolding panorama, we sat down after the brutal, loosely graveled steep ramp, looked and marveled, chatted and planned.

We realized on this occasion that we had to forget about the long-awaited ice cream, as the clock hands were already pointing to half-past five, and we still needed to adequately appreciate the other shore of the lake with its reed belts, bathing beaches, and – yes, actually two! – pump tracks. "But maybe we can have dinner at Tabor?" Mona pointed to a prominent elevation on the east shore of the lake, where red umbrellas indicated a rewarding spot for sunset dining.
To get ahead of ourselves: It didn't work out, because we returned to the Egger shore so late that we lacked the motivation for one last uphill despite motor assistance. With the restaurant of the Strandcamping Anderwald, like our accommodation Lake.Bike Basecamp and indeed one of the earliest and most committed partners of the MTB project, however, we found more than just a worthy substitute. I'll just say: Carinthian Laxn and Ritschert, wok from organic beef rump or Anderwald house platter.

Day two in the Lake.Bike region begins, alongside the lovingly creative parade of breakfast eggs by the Theresienhof hosts, with another kind gesture: the nightly rain has stopped, so we will likely be able to explore the trails around Lake Ossiach with dry bottoms.
“At least if you skip the Matschy Trail,” laughs Mona, who is occupied elsewhere today and therefore passes the guiding baton to Raphael.

Raphael, the trained mechatronics technician. Raphael, the health and fitness trainer. Raphael, the trail builder, nutrition consultant, EMS instructor, MTB trainer … multiple qualifications and professional pillars seem to be the norm among the MTB guides of the Lake.Bike region, most of whom are organized in the Ride Company by Herwig Kamnig.
We greatly appreciate this in terms of guaranteed broadening of horizons. Good Mr. Marko, for example, could share with us parents of young children his rich experience, gained over numerous school courses, club training sessions, and youth camps, in dealing with children who are (un)willing to engage in sports. He could introduce us, having trained under renowned trail builders like Tommy Squibb or Cody Ferris-Heath, to the art of drainage or curve construction in detail. Likewise, one could also discuss with him the sense or nonsense of dietary supplements or various problems in mechanical engineering.

Fun fact: Raphael's Lake.Bike career began where the MTB project as a whole started: in the Villach Area One.
This was a low-threshold training area on private property belonging to the Kamnig family on Kumitzberg, in close proximity to the city. Herwig, the son, then chairman of the Radlager association, started building it in 2015 - supported by many volunteers - and bike coordinator and MTB ace Andreas Holzer from the tourism association pushed and continued it.
When a part-time job for eight hours a week was advertised, the young father on parental leave at the time jumped at the opportunity. "Finally, building trails legally and without a balaclava intrigued me," the mid-forties man recalls with a wink.

To his and many others' great regret, Area One was closed this year. Due to a lack of parking spaces and complaints from residents, the area had been criticized from the beginning. Windthrows had now given it the final blow - or perhaps the other way around.
At least: With the new pump track, there is a worthy alternative in the region, although not independently accessible for city kids. And the Trailcenter Ossiacher See also has a special training area where the famous first steps, starting and gradually advancing, are well possible for both young and old.

We learn all this and more while we pedal up the forest road to the trail entrances and later up some side roads.
There is no dedicated uphill trail in the local trail center, but it is on Raphael's wish list for future constructions. Therefore, those who arrive without motor assistance have quite a bit of work to do in some sections, as the north side of the Ossiacher Tauern, on whose wooded slope the trails are concentrated, drops rather steeply towards the lakeshore.
"No problem, you just don't go up as often" ... "or you stop earlier," project manager Andreas Holzer and his wife Sandra will later contradict us with a grin when we question the broad-sport suitability of some sections for non-motorized bikes. Cheers to Carinthian coziness!

Whether the still-hanging clouds are dark green, almost like a fjord, the Ossiacher Lake lies at our feet. Opposite, the Gerlitzen towers with its cable car, on whose lift route the PROlitzen Trail direttissima throws itself down - just under four kilometers long and almost 1,000 meters steep.Tommy Squibb, known among insiders from places like Innsbruck, Bad Kleinkirchheim, or Kranjska Gora, along with his trail builders, has designed this downhill track, which is only recommended for absolute experts. We swallow a bit considering Raphael's explanations of its characteristics and condition and are secretly quite glad to have to point out the unfortunately unsuitable equipment.

That we will once again progress from easy to challenging or from blue to black suits us well. And so we start with high spirits on the Van Duren Trail. “A flow trail, but fun!” as Raphael assures us with a somewhat ironic smile.
And indeed, the S1 is a wide, perfectly shaped and groomed wave track, on which all tables, step-ups, and doubles can be bypassed or rolled over. All of this is so fluid and smooth that true joy arises, and both pedaling and braking become almost redundant, while the eyes have time to glance at the sparkling Ossiacher See.

Via the subsequent Sansily Trail, beginners can also easily reach the lake shore again with dizzying turns. Anyone who masters this orgy of fast, wide, and more demanding, tighter curves well is ready for the next step.
Because the Andy Trail, for which you first have to pedal up again, already limits itself to a significantly narrower path. In some places, stones peek out of the ground, and body and brake work are required to smoothly navigate the sudden direction changes, steeper berms, and higher waves. A truly flowy, fluffy roller coaster!

We are ready for the black level. At the very end of the trail progression and also of the lake is the Huby Trail, classified as difficult S3 due to numerous hairpin bends, high steps, slanted roots, and steep sections.
We come, not least because our stomachs are growling, but we don't go beyond the Parthy Trail – "a lovely little path" according to Raphael. As we turn into the crisp natural trail with its stepped, tight curves, surprising drops, scattered jumps, but also flowy sections completely without roots or stones, a passerby hiker stops to watch the spectacle live – any questions?

In any case, we feel that we have earned our lunch with these 900 genuine S3 meters.
Via Cody, the best horse in the stable, we rush through a few last berms and waves over the free, flat meadow of the practice area down to the beer garden of Restaurant Martinz at Terrassen Camping at Lake Ossiach, where finally even mastermind Andy Holzer and his family honor us with their presence.