Trail and touring biking at Weissensee

With certain spots on this Earth, fate has been particularly kind. The Maldives with their dream beaches might belong to this category, as might the Great Barrier Reef off Australia, and perhaps also Iceland with its hot springs.
One place that undoubtedly ranks among nature's favorite playgrounds is a high valley in the southwest of Carinthia, nestled between the Gailtal Alps in the south and the Latschur Group in the north. There, just a stone's throw from Italy, Slovenia, and East Tyrol, lies Lake Weissensee.

There are no noisy motorboats or heavily trafficked transit roads here, but instead, a mostly tranquil atmosphere and the designation of "healing climatic health resort."
The only ways to explore the body of water, swamp-like in the west and fjord-like in the east, in its full length are on foot, by ferry, or by mountain bike – including charming combination options.

Directly from the lakeshore, 13 marked MTB routes spanning 150 kilometers lead into the surrounding mountain landscape. These routes hardly present any technical challenges. However, the forest road loops don’t skimp on scenic charm, rewarding culinary detours, numerous combination options, regular views of Lake Weissensee, and, for all bio-bikers, physical endurance challenges.
With the Naturarena Kärnten, there’s access to an additional 800 kilometers of marked routes in the Gitsch-, Gail-, and Lesach valleys. And when guests have already explored all the offerings around the lake, they can extend their rides into the Drau Valley.

A decade ago, the signs of the times were recognized, and the Weissenseetrail was built, followed two years later by the Naggl- and Panorama-Trails—three enjoyable single trails on the Naggler Alm high above the southern shore.
Together with the eight lines at Nassfeld and the Flow Trail with its asphalt pump track in Tröpolach, which were combined in 2019 into the "Trailworld of Mountains & Lakes," there is now a comprehensive offering for modern, lift-supported mountain biking just before the Italian border.
We greatly enjoy both facets—leisurely touring and action-packed trail biking—which is why we tried both during our visit.

As a starting point and chillout area after the rides, we stayed at nothing less than the top address for bikers at Lake Weissensee: the four-star Hotel & Chalets Regitnig in Techendorf. Its current managing director, Michael Eder, initiated the construction of the single trails in 2016, back then still as a junior boss, and was also significantly involved in the negotiations ... any questions?

The establishment, which has been hosting guests for over 100 years and is now in its fifth generation, joined the Mountain Bike Holidays network back in 2001 and has since continuously expanded its amenities tailored specifically to cycling holidaymakers. The range includes everything from a luxurious bike garage with charging facilities to a washing station, repair stands, and a drying system, right up to a Bike Info Corner.
Three local, certified MTB guides, including Michael, lead tours or offer riding technique courses. Guests of Regitnig receive discounts at the neighboring bike rental shop, and if they encounter a breakdown during a ride, they can rely on the pickup service from their accommodation.
In addition, there are those "standards" that are likely to please all guests here—half of whom are active holidaymakers and the other half seeking relaxation—and that contribute to the very special Regitnig charm: the spacious, tastefully designed chalets, the excellent cuisine with its outstanding service staff, the luxurious lake spa at the cozy private bathing beach, and, our favorite, the boathouse that has been transformed into an incredibly grounding oasis of tranquility directly over the water.

Since December 2024, Michael Eder, together with his wife Jasmin and brother Markus, has been at the helm, while mother Irmgard, née Regitnig, still actively helps out, and the sixth generation—already three members strong—bustles through the main house with its 30 rooms and suites. For all its luxury: it's still a true family business!

Among the highlights of the region is the circuit around Weissensee. Naturally, we also took on this beautifully described panoramic tour.
In its standard version, it spans about 30 kilometers and 700 meters of elevation gain. The "Great Lake Circuit" can be extended to a full-day endurance test with detours to the western shore, Tschabitscher, Weiße Wand, Alm hinterm Brunn, Techendorfer Alm, and Naggler Alm. This roughly corresponds to the so-called "GOLDtour," an endurance challenge with a stamp pass and commemorative gift (details in the info box). Alternatively, the Weissensee boat service allows for a shorter version, for example, around 20 km/600 m elevation gain (starting at the eastern shore by boat).
It is recommended to tackle the circuit in a clockwise direction. Otherwise, the ascent to Bodenalm can become unpleasantly long and steep.

The official starting point is the so-called "Schattseite" (shady side) of Techendorf. The main village at Weissensee is divided into two parts, with a bridge connecting the southern and northern shores at the narrowest point of the lake since the 11th century.
Boat dock, restaurants, tourist information, cable car, campground, beach - all are concentrated around this narrow point, which until 1967 was connected by a rather shaky and adventurous wooden structure lacking railings. In the past, hay-laden carts or timber-laden wagons would cross here on their way from the meadows to the farms or from the forest to the sawmill and back. If the route was too long or narrow, rafts were also used.
We, on the other hand, cross the now steel-reinforced concrete bridge completely effortlessly and comfortably on the asphalted roadway to the sunny side.

After a short ride on the riverside road, the route soon takes a steep climb eastward via a forest road, always following the northern shore.
After just a few meters of elevation, the Weissensee flashes its deep blue to emerald green hues through the forest for the first time. "It only gets better from here," promises Regitnig's manager Michael, who took time off specifically to accompany us for a little while. And indeed: As steeply as the wooded slopes of the sunny side drop toward the lake shore, the body of water with its striking white borders stands out even more impressively from its surroundings. The equally picturesque mountain panorama, however, is not entirely unobstructed by the low-hanging clouds—but you can't have it all!

On the other hand, as the saying goes, you take what you can get, and it doesn't take long for Michael to convince us to add an extra kilometer up to the Alm hinterm Brunn.
Stopping for refreshments is a must in a region that has secured EU-wide protection for its alpine cheese and bacon, regularly sends its "pleasure raft" across the lake, and almost weekly celebrates culinary events like the Polenta or Cabbage Festival.
That said, we are too early for the region's true specialties. Ever heard of "Faulerkas"? Or "Glundner Kas"? One mixed with curd lumps, the other with caraway seeds, Kärnten's pride oozes like a slow-moving lava flow over bread crusts and into human throats in the summer. But now, in May, there are no dairy cows on the Alm yet, and thus no soft or cooked cheese varieties available.

But no matter. First, the hard cheese reserves from last year that are still available taste delicious, and second, the odometer reading of 4 km/350 meters of elevation gain after the start doesn’t necessarily call for a snack just yet. A coffee or a glass of sour milk (with apricot!) will do just fine.
And third, the alpine pasture behind the Brunn impresses with many other attractions. Runner ducks, for example, three of them, to which hut owner Christine Rindler recently added three drakes. Additionally, sweet rabbits, a cuddly cat, a herd of young cattle, and countless bonsais.

Bonsais? Indeed. Christine's husband Stefan spends about three hours daily tending to his bonsai collection. Even proper watering is a true science—depending on the age or location of the miniature trees, occasional repotting, combing out and trimming the roots, or simply snipping here and there is required.
The gardening artist, who occasionally travels around the world for his passion, could endlessly talk about his little darlings: that, fundamentally, any plant can be a bonsai, how to achieve trunk thickening and why sacrificial branches are needed for this, what fine ramification means, and so on and so forth.
But: The sky does not brighten, and it’s getting increasingly windy on the saddle between Weissensee and the Drautal Valley; which is why we decide it’s better to cover some distance.

Back at the junction where we left the actual lake circuit, the terrain becomes undulating, and the path at times spectacular. Sometimes, a rock wall looms behind a curve, so sudden, smooth, and high that one can't help but stop to take a good look at it. Other times, the well-maintained forest road seems to have been blasted wildly into the mountain, while in another spot, the same mountain threatens to slide over it as a scree field.
And time and again, fantastic views open up of the lake and its shores, as well as the geologically divided Gailtal Alps: on one side, the limestone rock that rises into proud peaks like Spitzegel or Vellacher Egel; on the other side, the crystalline rock of the Latschur group, which really shouldn't be south of the Drau, as the river is supposed to separate the Southern Limestone Alps from the crystalline rock.

Through essentially two hairpin bends, we then race back down to literal lake level and reach the eastern shore immediately behind the campsite and beach area of Ortsee.
On a warm day, a dip in the water would be worth it here. Instead, we leave the Weissensee via Mösel for the next 15 kilometers and briefly follow the course of the Weissenbach, before the Farchtensee road leads us southwards along the Tscherniheimer stream.
What is our next destination? The Hermagor Bodenalm, because by now the opulent Regitnig breakfast has been digested, and there's room in our stomachs for some hearty hut fare.

The last ten kilometers lead primarily on asphalt through lush green meadows, romantic reeds, and the offerings of gentle water sports tourism back to the starting point in Techendorf.
Since there is still some time until our delicious 6-course meal at Regitnig, we take a little detour westward as a bonus, wander through the reed belt, read up on the information boards about wet meadows and silting moors, and observe various creatures crawling, buzzing, and flying around.
However, with the now rising wind, the clouds that had disappeared in the afternoon quickly return, darker than ever. Call us cowards, but rather than watching the approaching rain from open-air viewing platforms, we prefer to lounge safely and healthily behind panoramic windows in the relaxation room of the lake spa or the brilliant lake living room ...

What we unfortunately miss out on due to the passing front is a stroll through Techendorf, which can be quite charming atmospherically, because: Here, rustic down-to-earthness meets southern flair.
With stoic Carinthian calmness, one drinks Italian espresso on an ornate wooden terrace, while right next to it, rowing and pedal boats bob on the water; grabs an ice cream cone with two or three scoops, enjoys fish specialties freshly caught from the lake that’s up to 99 meters deep, or has fun on mild summer evenings with a game of mini-golf.

Doesn’t exactly sound like a wild nightlife scene? Correct. "The typical Weissensee guests are families," says Regitnig boss Michael. "While one parent keeps the children entertained in the morning, the other goes on a bike tour. At noon, everyone meets at the beach and does something together."
The options for this range from a classic afternoon of swimming to various types of water sports, including fishing, as well as hiking, carriage rides, or Segway tours. But no matter which pastime you choose: The turquoise blue of Lake Weissensee is always part of the experience!

The same applies to the tour program on the second day. Because anyone who decides to go trail biking on the Naggler Alm does not have to forgo the Weissensee panorama - quite the opposite!
To claim that maximizing viewpoints was the guiding principle for the respective trail routes would, of course, be an exaggeration. But without actually consulting the trail builders, early professionals of their craft, we dare to say: At least on the sidelines, this aspect was considered - even if it was "just" by local Michael Regitnig, who personally "hiked through the undergrowth" with the 17 landowners during the preliminary negotiations for the Weissensee Trail.

Speaking of which, the history of the trail trio's creation: a prime example of the initial effort often required for such projects in Austria - and how simple it can be afterward once this hurdle is overcome.
"What we went through for the first trail," Michael recalls, shaking his head ten years after the project began. Feasibility studies, information evenings in the community hall, on-site inspections with property owners and cable car operators - the full program. Georg Grogger, back then a race organizer alongside his wife Doris (we're just saying: Nordkette Quartett and Nordkette Downhill!) and a leading part of the consulting agency Trail Solutions, was responsible for the Weissensee Trail, which opened in 2016.
The fact that the Tyroleans did a good job is evident in the 2.7 km long single trail itself - more details on that in a moment. And in terms of project management, the quality proof lies in how the trail construction at Weissensee continued two years later: "For the Naggl and Panorama trails, we just said: ‘this and that is what we have planned - okay?’ And everyone said: ‘okay,’" recounts project initiator Michael Eder with a grin.

Because yes, the Weissensee Trail, which we enthusiastically dive into following the friendly recommendation of a local as "the best to start with," quickly turns out to be not as easy as initially and secretly thought. The main culprit is the still wet terrain, which brings some slippery stones and, above all, slick roots.
On the second run in the afternoon, the situation looks quite different, and we can, apart from a tight right-hand turn in the last section whose apex always seems to come up surprisingly and unevenly, ride it in a rather fun and relaxed manner.

At 2.7 kilometers long, the Weissensee Trail is, in hindsight, actually the easiest of the trio, mainly due to its flowing, wide turns and the longer transverse rides in between. The very natural and varied trail blends skillfully into the terrain, rarely gets steep, and is mostly well visible. Cynics claim its most challenging part is the gravel turn right before the valley station. Apart from a rocky and rubbly section at the intersection with the Panorama Trail, the surface is predominantly grippy forest soil.
For true experts, the signature trail might lack a few more features for playing and jumping, while beginners might find the relatively frequent (angled) roots, though never extreme, somewhat intimidating. What absolutely everyone will love are the moments when the forest or the cable car route opens up sightlines, or when the trail crosses or skirts the ski slope. This is less about the immediate riding pleasure and more about the stunning views of the lake and the mountains, which can be thoroughly enjoyed thanks to the trail's moderate difficulty.

With moments like these, as its name already suggests, the Panorama Trail does not hold back. However, you first have to earn them, because after the ski slope entry below the mountain station, there's still a nearly forested kilometer with a few short counter ascents heading west, before the remaining two kilometers of true downhill begin.
Presumably because the - nonetheless natural - surface appears more polished than on the other two options, the prefix "Flow-" is often associated with the Panorama Trail. But that doesn’t matter, it’s still fun.
Except perhaps for a short section in the most scenic passage, if you’re riding a brand-new bike. In these three wide hairpin turns through sparse, low vegetation, a few waterholes and muddy meters await as a result of the rainy night or - as the half-exposed pipes suggest - a drainage issue.

Otherwise, the Panorama Trail is a fairly narrow curve extravaganza spiced with numerous jump features, which annihilates considerable vertical meters within short distances - primarily in the form of berms.
The 3.2 km long line is correspondingly tight and undulating, zigzagging its way as the second of three trails through the forest. Only after merging into the Weissensee Trail do the longitudinal and lateral movements calm down and the profile of the pioneer takes over.

Time for a break! Because for this too, the Naggler Alm is perfect — already in the 2000s, thanks to a technical course near the mountain station created by the local mountain bike school, it became the MTB riding technique hotspot of the region.
With its view of Nassfeld first, and then dandelion syrup, the lovingly decorated Naggler Alm hut won us over immediately. And when the tenant Christophe Neveux, a man with genuinely French roots and a colorful headpiece, eventually brings out a lingonberry-poppy seed cake that, in size and taste, could easily sustain ten more trail rides, we are definitively in seventh alpine hut heaven.
Why again should we, especially now that the sun has come out and is enticingly winking at the arranged deck chairs, get up from this delightful spot?

Indeed, the Naggl Trail! As the flattest and longest (5.1 km) of the three lines due to the approach via the alpine pasture, it has a two-part character:
Eyes open and stay focused is the motto in the upper section, once you’ve passed the gate. In the undulating terrain, you quickly build up momentum and – if you want – some airtime, but you need to control both on a rather narrow, partially slightly exposed path with several changes in direction. After the first forest road crossing, there are what feel like 200 switchbacks (in reality, it’s probably only 20) with some trickier features: rock slabs, root steps, and surprising steep sections.

The second part, after another road crossing, delights with a duathlon of forest bathing and wave riding. In a hinted slalom, you surf just below the official alpine pasture access road through the woods, and everything is velvety green and wonderfully soft.