On the Bohemia Loop through the Czech Republic and the Mühlviertel

Hello, back again? How was it?" Hanna greets me with a joyful smile as she stands at the tap, welcoming us back after our return. And without really waiting for my answer, she adds: "Would you like a beer?"
"Really great!" I reply truthfully, but for the time being, I decline the offered Kozel. "Thanks, maybe a bit later."

Hanna looks up from the foam crown she’s just forming, slightly puzzled. Her eyebrows rise in surprise.
Oops. "Beer" and "later" – that combination probably doesn’t quite compute in the Czech Republic, the world leader in annual beer consumption with 128 liters per capita.
"We just want to shower first," I murmur almost apologetically.
"Alright," my conversation partner dismisses me to the room – though judging by her expression, she’s not entirely convinced of the appropriateness of this sequence.

“A lot of nature” and “mostly asphalt streets” were what Hanna predicted for us. She was thoroughly wrong with the second part of her forecast, but let’s not hold that against her. After all, the cosmopolitan from Prague, who most recently worked in the USA, has only been here for a month – too short a time to personally explore the route options beyond the excellently developed bike paths around the Vltava Reservoir.

In fact, the Bohemian Loop rightly belongs to the mountain bike trail network of the Mühlviertler Granitland. As the first cross-border project of this MTB region in the northwest of Upper Austria, it certainly meets the demands of knobby tires, especially in South Bohemia. However, it’s worth noting in advance for those curious that it’s also certainly fun with gravel bikes.
The latest extension of the trail network, which currently spans 37 (!) municipalities, 17 routes, and over 950 kilometers, crossing the national border, will officially open on the Pentecost weekend as part of the Granit Marathon. By then, the signage should also be in place, and the offering, including the GPX track, should be uploaded to the Granitland website.

The same applies to Vítkův hrádek, the second cultural highlight of the tour. Likely almost 1,000 years old at its core, an observation platform was opened in 2006 on the tower of the former watchtower, accessible via many wooden stairs. For a small fee, you can enjoy a fantastic panoramic view from the top over the Vltava Reservoir, the Bohemian Forest, and the Alps, stretching as far as the Großer Priel and Dachstein.
With its prominent location on the 1,035 m high Wittigstein peak, Vítkův hrádek is not only clearly visible from afar. The stone fortress, complete with a small exhibition area and play area, also holds the title of the "highest-lying castle ruin in the Czech Republic." Additionally, it overlooks the only village in the region that was not destroyed during the Sudeten expulsions: Svatý Tomáš.

After ten kilometers of complete solitude – and another 40 ahead – this meant not only: People (20). Houses (11). A church (freshly renovated). Yes, even a luxury hotel (4 stars). But above all, also two (!) dining options.
On our descent, we initially thought the many "Bistro" signs, which advertised the restaurant operations of our guesthouse over a very wide area, were just particularly enthusiastic marketing. By now, we knew: It was more of a courtesy because anyone who misses the only available catering option might face a supply problem.

In summer, a guesthouse in Přední Výtoň, right by the swimming beach, is also open. During the off-season, at least a few meters away, you can enjoy delicious coffee and small snacks from a trailer. However, we were craving authentic Czech specialties, which is why we opted for the Forester's Lodge Hájovna Svatý Tomáš, a spot very popular among cyclists.
Bohemian cuisine owes much to Austrian cuisine, from potato soup and roast pork to sweet dumplings. But when enjoyed right at their place of origin, the bread dumplings and wild boar goulash, sausages in beer sauce, and pancakes with prune jam tasted even better.

On the other hand, vegetarians are often relegated to eating side dishes in Czech country inns, and vegans should consider alternative options altogether.
As omnivores, however, we were well-fueled after the meal for the technical highlight of the tour: the fun singletrail descent from St. Thomas down toward Lipno. After more pleasant forest and meadow trails, you are deposited directly at the swimming beach in Přední Výtoň on the southern shore.

Which brings us to the most impressive man-made feature on the Bohemia loop. At 42 kilometers long and up to five kilometers wide, the Lipno, holding more than 300 million cubic meters of water, is the largest lake in the Czech Republic.
As the highest-level stage of the Vltava Cascade, it was created in 1959 after seven years of dam construction, primarily as flood protection for the downstream region and Prague. Of course, a power plant was also considered.

What the fjord-like body of water primarily represents to the Czechs today is aptly illustrated by its nickname, the South Bohemian Sea: people go to the Vltava Reservoir to swim, fish, sail, and engage in all imaginable types of water sports.
Not least, the beach of Přední Výtoň, with its sandy and grassy strip, the idyllic view of the little church, and the wave lapping that truly resembles the sea, instantly transports you into a holiday mood.

Incidentally, this place also formed the only exception to the prohibition of access that was in effect for the entire right bank of the lake during communism, as the military restricted area began here. What was drastic for the people turns out, in hindsight, to have been good for nature: The Iron Curtain became – not only at Lipno – a green belt.
And so, we made our way through this magnificent natural scenery, sometimes on charming forest and meadow paths, sometimes on gently ascending gravel trails, and sometimes on perfectly straight asphalt. Only the "Gratscher," known and dreaded from the Mühlviertel – steep but short uphill stretches – are almost entirely absent on the other side of the border.

Back in the friendly guest lounge of our accommodation. Hanna, who gave us a brief overview of the surrounding tour offerings the day before and sent us on a small side mission to the Heiligwasser Chapel in Hörleinsödt, stands behind the counter pouring beer after beer. Her boss brings the perfectly poured glasses to the tables.
"We are a small team, so everyone does a bit of everything," smiles the passionate communicator as she expertly operates the tap system with surprisingly practiced movements.

In fact, the renowned photographer works here managing marketing for guesthouse owner and MTB project supporter Tomas Mandat. But the waitress is sick, and the place, often packed with school groups, is now bustling with activity.
Inside, about 30 hungry participants of a running camp gather for dinner, while outside, numerous gravel bikers sit, their loaded bikes leaning against the fence. A group of Austrian e-bikers is just leaving the premises, heading home; along with several families on a weekend trip to hike and enjoy nature.

After work, Hanna will climb into the outdoor jacuzzi, which is available to all guests, and lie in the bubbling warm water while gazing at the starry sky. Where there is no light pollution because there are hardly any people, the nighttime firmament is particularly visible.

As a former military base, on whose expansive grounds not only artistic sculptures and authentic "beaver art" but also relics of the Iron Curtain can still be seen, Penzion Dobík Pasečná is more than just a fitting addition to the cross-border Bohemian loop. There are indeed expansion plans: building up here, adding there, and a bathing pond over there in the back. But the beavers in the brook just below at the foot of the hill, behind which lies Austria, will remain. And the rangers of the national park will continue to see no reason for additional renaturation measures.

She told us that she first had to get used to all the greenery here, said the Prague native who had just returned from the States when we arrived; likewise, she had to adjust to the fact that everything moves a bit slower, more leisurely, and more relaxed in close proximity to the former "West."

Everything, except for the matter of beer enjoyment. The locals indulge in it with the speed and thoroughness of a vacuum cleaner. And after finishing our work, we too cannot help but attest to the Kozel's remarkable drinkability. Well then: To the Bohemian round – Na zdraví, Cheers!