"Would you like a little more wine? Or would you prefer the Checkpoint now?" Grinning, Michael presents me with what seems to be the typical choice around here.
Admittedly: First the gravel tour, then the wine tasting would have been the biochemically more agreeable sequence. But as is well known, one should celebrate festivals as they come.
And there are truly enough relevant celebrations at Loisium Langenlois: Sparkling wine breakfast, adventure cellar, tavern hiking, Wine Treatment, dinner with wine pairing, winemaker talk... and recently, thanks to the Loisium Bike World: gravel ride, road bike tour, cycling tour, MTB trails.
When it comes to bikes, it's like wine: often you have to try different styles to find your favorite
The Loisium Bikewelt offer: Test a Trek!So, helmet on and sunglasses on, mounted on the Trek Checkpoints in black, black, and black, and started rolling; from the forecourt of the futuristic, yet idyllically nestled in the surrounding vineyards, four-star establishment directly onto the meadow path behind its parking lot.
Of course, we could have easily stayed with the Bikeboard boss himself in nearby Schönberg for one or two rides in the Kamptal. But honestly: Who would not choose the Wine & Spa hotel alternatively, if it entices with an invitation?
Aside from that, we were curious about what the leading Kamptal enterprise had given itself, so to speak, for its 20th anniversary.
A bike shop with an attached workshop is what the Bikewelt, opened in 2023, was described to us as. There is a wide range of bike wear and accessories available for purchase, and they offer service packages starting at 25 euros - ideal for those who don't want to or can't do their own repairs; especially now, at the start of the season. On one hand.
On the other hand, and most importantly, the shop, located directly in the Loisium, sees itself as a hub for sports-enthusiastic guests who are staying in Langenlois and the surrounding area without their own bike, or for all cycling enthusiasts who want to get more out of themselves and their (future) equipment.
The Loisium Bikewelt offers this clientele a truly extensive fleet of rental bikes, from comfortable low-entry bikes to powerful e-MTBs and sleek racing bikes, as well as - also electric-assisted - bikes for adolescents. Yes, even a trailer for toddlers and dogs has been considered, and even helmets and racing shoes can be borrowed.
It is a matter of honor, namely Michi Mitterbacher's honor, that the bikes are only issued perfectly maintained, adjusted, and tailored to customer wishes. Those who want to know exactly can even go through the latter using professional bike fittings - also with a bike brought along.
For the even more demanding clientele, what the partner Trek understands by Demo Center in a broader sense becomes evident: Surrounding dealers can send someone who wants to purchase a high-quality bike from the US manufacturer to the Bikewelt for an extensive test ride(s). The rental fee is refunded upon later, actual purchase.
A fine thing if you're not quite sure about the model, size, equipment, or even just suitability! And for everyone else, at least a guarantee that only the most current material is always lent out in the Bikewelt. Not to mention the visual treats - some racing bikes in fancy custom finishes are also in stock.
Hotel guests receive a ten percent discount on all services of the Loisium Bikewelt. In principle, however, the shop and its offers are open to all cycling fans.
Water and Wine - Gravel Tour through the Kamptal
Our first tour plan fits perfectly with the vinophilic environment and pre-program like a pot fits a lid: 37 comfortable gravel kilometers through the most significant locations of Langenlois and Co., garnished with cultural and spiritual highlights. And by that, we do not mean the delicious Heurigen snack that we quickly indulge in to quell the emerging midday hunger just before our departure... although the opulent snack taken in the picturesque ambiance of the 10er-Haus could certainly also pass as an intellectual uplift.
No 100 meters after the start of the 400-meter elevation round, the Kamptal already surrounds us with all its power and glory: the clearly sprouting green of the vineyards, which comfortably stretches towards the spring sun; the narrow, winding asphalt road that swiftly curves down through the gardens towards Zöbing; the bright blue sky, adorned with white clouds, stretching like the dome of a cathedral over the gently undulating hillscape; and on the horizon, the dark silhouettes of wooded elevations, which gradually turn into real mountains in the distance: Rax and Schneeberg, for example, or the Mürzsteger Alps.
Less than 100 meters after the start of the tour, the Kamptal already surrounds us with all its might and glory
It is a quaint world of cellar lanes and vineyards, stone walls and river meanders, meadows and fields, and scattered villages and shrines that surrounds us. As dark and mysterious as the Kamp winds through the valley, the terraced land presents itself as friendly and open in contrast.
Not every little house is adorned, not every banquet well-maintained. All the more perfectly do we fit into the picture with our gravel bikes.
Already at the crossing of the Heiligenstein, a famous Riesling mountain and every spring the site of the legendary MTB race Kamptal Trophy, it became immediately clear that the fast off-road speedsters are the ideal sporting equipment for this area. And as we now advance further southeast, this impression becomes an irrefutable certainty. Gravel tracks, field paths, side roads, cellar lanes – between the foothills of the Manhartsberg in the north and the Wagram in the east, a dense network of prototypical gravel terrain unfolds, causing our locals, Bikewelt director Michael and BB boss NoPain, to ponder more than once about the best of the many rewarding options for the route from A to B.
And so we make our way from Zöbing further over Straß and its charming market square towards Gösting. Sometimes we speed through enchanted hollow paths, with imposing loess walls within arm's reach. Sometimes we admire especially lovingly decorated wine press houses. Sometimes we cruise along surprising edges of the terrain and enjoy the expansive views over the Tullnerfeld to the Lower Austrian foothills.
Then suddenly a bright, green forest engulfs us. Over soft soil and thin branches, we climb gently uphill until we reach the 371-meter-high Hengstberg, a notable elevation of the Wagram.
For the local vintners, of course, all this represents their most valuable treasures - and workplaces: the already mentioned Heiligenstein, always easily recognizable due to its 21 m high lookout, famous for its sought-after structure of reddish-brown sandstones and coarse conglomerates across Europe; the Ried Hasel, the largest of the ten StraĂźertal vineyard areas, where, besides region-typical whites, Burgundy varieties also thrive well; the Wagram, since 2021 a DAC-nobilitated terrain stage made of glacially blown loess on former seabed and Danube gravel; or later Gobelsburg, an ancient wine-growing area near Langenlois and today popular not least because of its lively tavern culture.
An impressive 3,583 hectares of the Kamptal are counted as vineyard area, over 2,000 of which are in the Langenlois municipal area. GrĂĽner Veltliner and Riesling are considered the most typical grape varieties of this region, characterized by warm summer days, cool nights, and long, sunny autumn periods.
No later than visiting the Loisium wine shop, it becomes clear: That is by no means all. Starting with the indigenous Roter Veltliner - we pass by the Engabrunn lookout tower, colloquially called "the glasses" due to the huge stone sculpture placed next to it, the origin of this "clone breeding" dating back to 1926 - a colorful potpourri is offered here at farm-gate prices. 80% of the offerings come from local vintners and producers.
3,583 hectares of the Kamptal are wine-growing areas
... of which over 2,000 are in the Langenlois municipal areaBike World, Wine World ... World of Pleasure!
"Mmmhhh ... this is how to work!" Satisfied, Michi leans back. The first of four courses of the excellent dinner with wine pairing is completed, all rental bikes are cleaned and stored in the barn, we have finished our round without any defects or falls: From the impressive box seats at Wagram down to the equally impressive Peace Stupa in Grafenwörth, and via the partly gravel, partly asphalted, partly meadow paths next to the river of the Kamptal bike trail back to Langenlois ... of course, not without a prior visit to the fairy-tale-like Grafenegg Castle, which with its exciting mix of romantic historicism, state-of-the-art concert and event halls, as well as its idyllic park continues to fascinate anew.
Now, the shift is officially over for "Bike Michi", as the Loisium crew has dubbed the distinctively styled man in his fifties.
As a passionate mechanic, junior coach, occasional racer, and fixture of the Vienna MTB scene, when he was offered to help build the Loisium Bikewelt in Langenlois a little over a year ago, the wine lover agreed and, as they say, turned his hobby into a profession. That is, the sporting hobby, not the oenological one.
Since then, the man from Brigittenau commutes daily to the beautiful Kamptal to lead what doesn't fit into any conventional bike shop mold. Also, the fact that Mr. Mitterbacher guided us today through the gardens and fields of the surroundings is occasionally part of his job in case of corporate incentives or seminar programs.
The fact that the man known as "Mister M" in the Bikeboard forum has even spontaneously taken a room to continue accompanying us through the evening and the wine offerings should have served as a warning to me. But somewhere between the after-ride drink, aperitif, wine pairing, switching to the bar, and a final schnapps, I simply stop counting today's glasses. Tomorrow it will be sweated out anyway.
A drunken tale, but one that nobody regrets
No, we don't mean our evening at Loisium. Rather, its late-night origin story in the up to 900-year-old cellars of Langenlois.Off to the Far North - Road Bike Tour to Waldviertel
New day, new endeavor. We're saddling up the next faster bikes with the next smoother tires. Sleek Trek Madones (and a trusty Trek Domane) instead of yesterday's Checkpoints. Sharp aero racers (and a comfortable endurance model) instead of sturdy gravel bikes.
A 60-km road bike loop around the Manhartsberg and then over to the western side of the Kamptal is on the agenda, into the highlands between Gars, Schiltern, and Gföhl. "Pure Waldviertel," promises NoPain, who of course dutifully went home to his wife and children last night. I'm not entirely sure whether that's good or bad for me.
A luxurious breakfast later, the world looks much better again. The transitions from the glassy restaurant area of the Loisium to the architecturally exciting courtyard and the surrounding gardens are seamless, and wherever I look, this April day is shaping up to be a pleasant example of the sunny-warm kind.
In the steaming outdoor pool, a swimmer diligently swims his laps. The even more industrious Michael has long since placed the tour and MTB fleet in front of Bikewelt. After all, the shop opens at eight. Now the expert adjusts the final details on our rental bikes: gears, seat height, pedal system.
Just a few more rental contracts to finalize, give tour tips, sell bars and pumps, and let customers try on jerseys, then all other customer requests are fulfilled, and we can get going.
In addition to yesterday's core team, which includes another Michael, namely Loisium marketing advisor, sports therapist, and former triathlon pro "Micky" Szymoniuk, as well as BB photographer NoSane, today spa staff member and hobby triathlete Tanya has also made time to join our group.
Once again, we first head for StraĂź im StraĂźertale. This time, however, we do not leave the market town eastwards, but follow the course of the Gschinzbach over the B35 to the north and Manhartsberg.
The valley floor here is noticeably narrow, and its now wooded slopes rise steeply on both sides. Precisely at the narrowest point, where the river makes a distinctive 90° turn, sits the Falkenberg castle ruin - or rather the sparse remainder of what was once certainly a grand, medieval structure.
"It feels completely different from yesterday," it occurs to me for the first time at this point. And it won't be the last time.
Thankfully, we do not have to go over the Manhartsberg. Correction: we cannot. The state road, which traverses this elongated, maximum 537-meter-high barrier between Waldviertel and Weinviertel from almost north to south, is – as the former, remote Waldviertel would suggest – unpaved over much of its length.
Therefore, often used for special stages in the Waldviertel Rally, we bypass the wooded hump to the right. We circle it via Elsarn, Bösendürnbach, Mühlbach, and Eggendorf, and then swiftly descend from Kleinburgstall down to Plank am Kamp, where we quickly change to the river side.
If it were summer, a brief visit to the famous Kampbad with its red-and-white-striped wooden bathhouse would be almost obligatory. However, as it stands, let me simply suggest that there will be no further dining options until Schiltern and – not just for that reason – it is recommended for the hungry and thirsty to visit the Strand-Heuriger Bachmann, which is usually open from mid-May onwards.
Pale Ale and Apricot Sour
Beery alternatives to wine, handmade in SchilternBy now, my metabolism has done its duty. So, it's not necessarily easy or even soothing that it's going uphill to ThĂĽrneustift now for a longer stretch; but still, thanks to my high-quality sports equipment, it's okay. By the way, of course, it was me who preferred the comfort of the endurance racer over the speed of the aero racer. And our, my traveling speed proves me right.
Within three kilometers, we climb nearly two hundred meters in altitude; typical for the west bank of the Kamp between Zöbing and Gars, where the slopes sometimes even drop off much steeper and occasionally form real walls. The view from above over the valley notch is accordingly impressive.
Subsequently, we virtually glide over the high plateau that the Waldviertel develops into beyond ThĂĽrneustift. Meadows alternate with fields that are partly still brown, partly already lush green. Here and there, a small grove provides shade or a brightly yellow blooming sea of rapeseed pushes into the picture. It's lonely up here. Lonely and beautiful.
Apart from a few isolated farms and the small village of Tautendorf with 180 inhabitants, we hardly encounter any signs of human life. However, the roads are well-maintained, mostly completely free of traffic, clear, and even with an oncoming tractor still wide enough for everyone. A road cyclist's paradise!
The Stiefernbach stream also gives a good reason for a few meters of elevation down, and then up again. But no one needs to fear nasty spikes or evil ramps on the Gföhler Straße - rather, a constant headwind.
Although, to finally sink exhausted into the pallet furniture of the brewery in Schiltern, it is enough to be traveling with people who are significantly fitter...
It is lonely up here. Lonely and beautiful.
On the way from the Buchberger Waldhütten through Tautendorf to SchiltingeramtThe organic farm BrauSchneider settled in 2017 in the part of Langenlois known for its botanical attractions - Kittenberger Erlebnisgärten and the show garden or seed archive Arche Noah. Since then, it has complemented the region's beverage offerings with its excellent craft beers.
It provides us with the robust India Pale Ale, the malty Dark Mild, or the summery-fruity Apricot Sour, but also some coffee and Wachauer pastries, fresh energy for the epic finale over the old mountain wine road back to Loisium.
Schiltern marks the transition from the forested north to the wine-dominated Kamptal. Pines, beeches, oaks, or spruces thrive here just as well as fruit trees, bushes, or indeed grapevines.
The latter are, even more than the gardens in the lower elevations, exposed to the typical interplay of cold currents from the Waldviertel and warm weather influences from the Pannonian Basin for Kamptal. The result is marketed by the winemakers as mountain wine because their vineyards, overlaid with sands and rare gravels on old crystalline rock, allow it. According to Austrian wine law, this requires over 26% or 15° inclination, or terraces.
So, this is the theoretical substance from which the last kilometers of our 800-meter elevation round are made.
Practically, we are fascinated by how suddenly after the trip to the "high" north the other, the meticulously rowed and trellised Waldviertel sets in again. And with what a magnificent view from the wine town of Langenlois and the Göttweig Abbey over the Danube basin between Tulln and Krems including the power plant towers of Theiss and Zwentendorf up to Schneeberg and Ötscher this final section offers once again, hardly having left the garden village over a winding forest stretch.
Let's raise our glasses to that once more, let's drink to that once more. In the historic cellar of Weinwelt Loisium, where it all began over 20 years ago.
It's an open secret that the idea for the facility, which opened in 2003, was conceived late at night in the underground tunnels and wine storage areas of Langenlois. It's sort of "a drunken tale", but no one regrets it.
What cellar owners Gerhard and Tuula Nidetzky, their winemaker neighbor Karl Steininger, and the vinophilic star architect Steven Holl concocted deep underground back then is still found today as a supposedly authentic sketch on the labels of the GrĂĽner Veltliner from the Ried Loisium vineyard: the "trinity" of a labyrinth-like adventure cellar, a monolithic visitor center cube, and a hotel complex branched like an old vine.
Since then, the concept has gone global, finding successors in Southern Styria, recently in Champagne, and from 2026 also in Alsace; more offshoots are planned. In Styrian Ehrenhausen, there is already a "Light-Version" of Bikewelt: rental e-MTBs and low-entry bikes in a container placed next door. Whether one day all Loisiums will receive a fully integrated and expanded Bikewelt Ă la Langenlois remains to be seen. We think: Cool that the original operation in Lower Austria has one. And thank you for letting us make such extensive use of their offerings. Cheers!
... and by the way, Michi: How about we come back in the fall to visit the trail area Göttweig with the Trek-Fullys?
Water and Wine - Gravel Tour through the Kamptal |
Bike World, Wine World ... World of Pleasure! |
Off to the Far North - Road Bike Tour to Waldviertel |
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