Silca Super Secret Chain Lubrication
16.03.23 08:21 1482023-03-16T08:21:00+01:00Text: NoPain (translated by AI)Photos: Erwin HaidenWorkshop: DIY Chain Wax Tuning for a cleaner, faster, and more maintenance-free bicycle chain at (95%) professional level.16.03.23 08:21 2992023-03-16T08:21:00+01:00Silca Super Secret Chain Lubrication
16.03.23 08:21 2992023-03-16T08:21:00+01:00 NoPain (translated by AI) Erwin HaidenWorkshop: DIY Chain Wax Tuning for a cleaner, faster, and more maintenance-free bicycle chain at (95%) professional level.16.03.23 08:21 2992023-03-16T08:21:00+01:00
Erneut öffnen wir die Büchse der Pandora in Bezug auf Kettenpflege und präsentieren eine DIY-Lösung, mit welcher ihr Lebensdauer, Funktion und Wirkungsgrad euer MTB-, Gravel- und Rennradketten - trotz überschaubaren Aufwands in puncto Zeit und Geld - auf ein 95%iges Profiniveau bringen könnt.
Excursus: Bicycle Chain Physics & Lubrication
Bicycle Chain: Lifespan vs. Function vs. Efficiency
Sure, here is the translated text:```Am Fahrrad spielt die Kette eine zentrale Rolle und gehört mit einem Wirkungsgrad von 98-99% (unter idealen Bedingungen) zu den effizientesten Antriebsmitteln überhaupt. Das heißt, nur ein bis zwei Prozent der investierten Leistung gehen über die Reibung verloren. Im rauen Alltag liegt der realistische Wirkungsgrad eher bei 97% und kann durch Verschleiß, schlechte Schmierung und Schräglauf bis unter 95% sinken.
Für eine lange Lebensdauer empfehlen sich daher leichte Gänge, das Vermeiden von starkem Kettenschräglauf, die regelmäßige und schonende Reinigung sowie eine zweckmäßige (Straße, Gelände, Bahn, etc.) Schmierung der Kette.```Translation:```On a bicycle, the chain plays a central role and, with an efficiency of 98-99% (under ideal conditions), is one of the most efficient drive mechanisms overall. This means that only one to two percent of the invested power is lost due to friction. In everyday rough conditions, the realistic efficiency is more likely around 97% and can drop to below 95% due to wear, poor lubrication, and chain misalignment.
For a long lifespan, it is recommended to use light gears, avoid strong chain misalignment, regularly and gently clean the chain, and lubricate it appropriately (road, off-road, track, etc.).
New chains are factory-coated with a special lubricant that provides excellent rust protection and thoroughly penetrates the inner cavities of the chain. Typically, the protective/lubricating effect lasts for several hundred kilometers, during which the chain does not need to be re-lubricated.
Unfortunately, the excessive OEM "grease pack" literally stands in the way of optimal power transmission and also attracts dirt like the proverbial magnet. This not only looks unsightly but also reduces both the shifting function and the potential service life (of the entire drivetrain) during long rides in the rain and in dusty environments.
Abhilfe sollen hier wachshaltige Trockenschmiermittel bringen; die Verkaufsargumente dafür sind neben dem cleanen Look der geringere Verschleiß und weniger Reibungsverlust. Das Problem bei diesen flüssig aufzubringenden Mitteln aus der Flasche: Wenn die Kette außen und im Inneren noch gefettet ist, dann bleiben die neuen Schmiermittel nur oberflächlich haften, sind schnell wieder ausgewaschen und verlieren ihre schmierende Wirkung. Dabei ist es völlig egal, wie gut der Aftermarket-Schmierstoff in der Theorie bzw. im Labor auch abschneidet.
Unser Mittel zum Zweck ist Silcas Secret Chain Lube, das aus vier Sorten Wachs und Wolframdisulfid-Nanoplättchen besteht. Letztere weisen laut Herstellerangaben weniger als ein Drittel des dynamischen Reibungskoeffizienten von PTFE auf, jenen von Molybdänsulfid übertrumpfen sie um 75%. Diese als NanoPlatelets WS2 bekannte Emulsion dringt nach dem Auftragen bis tief in die Zwischenräume der Kettenglieder ein und hinterlässt nach dem Verdunsten des Alkohols einen Wachsschutzfilm, der wasser-, sand- und schmutzabweisend ist. Folglich reduziert der Schmierstoff die Verschmutzung der Kette und verlängert außerdem deren Lebensdauer.
Positiver Nebeneffekt für Performance-Nerds: Das eine oder andere (Zehntel-)Watt weniger Reibungsverlust und damit mehr Geschwindigkeit gegenüber den mit Produkten verschiedener Mitbewerber behandelten Ketten (vgl. Diagramm).
Die Herausforderung bleibt aber nach wie vor, das "Wundermittel" in ausreichender Menge an die richtigen Stellen der Kette zu transportieren. Dazu haben wir den von Silcas CEO Josh Poertner präferierten Kettenschmierungsprozess ausprobiert.
The text has been translated while retaining the formatting and line breaks. Here is the translated text:```The procedure presented here includes the polishing and cleaning of the chain as well as the application of a long-lasting layer of Silca Super Secret Chain Lube without excessive time expenditure or the need to purchase special equipment.
Advantages over a superficial standard lubrication
• Less friction, smoother operation even in bad weather
• Stays permanently clean
• Less wear on the chain, cassette, and chainrings
• More environmentally friendly, as less lubricant (excess) enters the environment
Disadvantages
• Initial first-time effort
• Runs slightly louder than with industrial grease or other lubricants
• Poorer corrosion protection than grease (in heavy wet conditions)
• Requires more frequent re-lubrication than grease (in heavy wet conditions)
Editor's note: If you want to completely save yourself the effort of polishing, cleaning, and the initial lubrication process, or if you are aiming for the 100% professional solution, order a Molten-Speed-Wax chain from Baranski or an Ultra-Fast-Chain from CeramicSpeed online and pick up again below in the section "Re-lubrication".
Silca Super Secret Chain Lube DIY Process in Four Steps
The list of required chemicals plus accessories:
Here is the translated text from German to English, keeping the tags and line breaks:```- White spirit
- Acetone
- Silca Super Secret at least 120 ml (better 240 ml)
- 3 sufficiently large canning jars for cleaning
- 1 very small canning jar for lubrication
- 1 small cable tie for fastening the chain links
- 1 larger cable tie for fishing out and hanging the chain
- Chain rivet pliers
- Protective gloves
- Paper, cotton, or microfiber cloth
- Funnel & coffee filter for recycling the chemicals (reuse)
#1 Breaking in the chain (on the trainer or on the road)
Here is the translated text:```Before a brand-new chain is cleaned and treated with Silca Super Secret, you should first determine the optimal chain length including the master link and break it in for at least half an hour on a completely clean drivetrain. A smart trainer is ideal for this, but of course, it can also be done in the great outdoors. While doing this, shift through all the gears multiple times to polish the sliding surfaces of the chain links and remove surface roughness and manufacturing defects.
Alternatively, you can also tune an already broken-in chain (as we did) with Super Secret - but don't forget to thoroughly clean the rest of the drivetrain (cassette, derailleur pulleys, and chainrings). A reusable master link is preferable to a pin due to potential future re-treatments.
#2 Cleaning the chain (with gasoline and acetone)
The intensive deep cleaning with complete degreasing is the foundation for long-lasting chain wax performance. As long as the bicycle chain is still greased on the inside, the Silca Super Secret Chain Lube will only adhere superficially, wash out quickly, and lose its lubricating effect.
3 methods for chain cleaning:
on the bike vs. in a jar vs. in an ultrasonic cleaner
CHAIN CLEANING ON THE BIKE
Temptingly simple and probably better than nothing - but by no means as effective as the other two methods. No matter how meticulously and intensively you clean with different brushes and chemicals - you can't get the grease out of the inside of the chain.
Advantages: Chain does not need to be removed
Disadvantages: Inefficient, harsh/caustic chemicals could damage the bearing seals or the paint, procedure usually leaves a mess on the floor, makes disposal of chemical residues difficult
Duration: Approximately 5-10 minutes
Result: Only superficially clean chain, inside still heavily greased, as a quick check with a piece of kitchen paper proves
CHAIN CLEANING IN A MASON JAR
Undoubtedly the best compromise of all three methods to free the bike chain from dirt, metal shavings, and chain grease.
Advantages: Efficient, minimal waste and reuse of chemicals, environmentally friendly disposal
Disadvantages: Process takes slightly longer, chain must be removed (chain lock necessary)
Duration: Approximately 15 minutes for a total of three cycles
Result: Nearly completely cleaned and degreased chain
CHAIN CLEANING USING ULTRASOUND
After two rounds with gasoline in a mason jar, the chain - instead of using acetone - goes into an ultrasonic cleaning device. The ultrasonic treatment, with a temperature as high as approximately 80 degrees Celsius and a mildly alkaline cleaning agent, removes even the last bit of grease.
Advantages: Maximally efficient
Disadvantages: Purchase of an ultrasonic device, additional time required, cost/effort/energy consumption for a single chain is rather questionable
Result: Completely cleaned and degreased chain
Step #2: Clean the chain with gasoline and acetone
1. Open the chain lock and remove the chain
2. Secure the chain links with a cable tie, attach another cable tie to the other end
3. Gasoline container #1: Swirl and shake the chain in it (30 seconds - 1 minute)
4. Wipe the chain with a cloth (optional: blow off with a compressor outdoors)
5. Gasoline container #2: Swirl and shake the chain in it (30 seconds - 1 minute)
6. Wipe the chain with a cloth
7. Acetone container: Swirl and shake the chain in it (30 seconds - 1 minute)
8. Wipe the chain with a cloth and let it air dry completely (optional: use a hair dryer to assist)
Notes:
a) White spirit has the sweet spot between sharpness and cleaning power and is also suitable for many other applications. Of course, you can also use nitro thinner instead of white spirit.
b) If the chain is not clean enough after two rounds of white spirit, you can repeat the process as many times as needed.
c) Do not soak the chain in acetone for too long, certainly not for hours or overnight.
Indoors, ensure good ventilation; the fumes from gasoline and acetone are toxic and should not be underestimated.
#3 Lubricate chain (with Silca Secret Chain Lube)
As soon as the chain is completely dry (especially water or other water-soluble cleaning agents are "poison", hence the acetone in the last cleaning step), we place the chain in the liquid Super Secret Chain Lube. Heating, as with Molten Speed Wax or Silca Secret Chain Blend, is not necessary.
Step #3 Lubricate the Chain (with Silca Super Secret Chain Lube)
9. Place the chain in the Silca Super Secret Chain Lube container and shake it for 30 seconds to 1 minute (alternatively, the chain can stay in the container for any length of time)
10. When removing the chain, use your fingers to wipe off the Super Secret excess so that the expensive lubricant stays in the container and can be reused.
11. Hang and let the chain dry for at least 30 minutes (the longer, the better)
12. Wipe off any excess with a cloth.
After the final drying, the chain does not need to be "broken" and produces fewer wax flakes than after a hot waxing method.
#4 Install chain (with master link)
Before you install the chain, the cassette, jockey wheels, and chainrings must also be thoroughly cleaned and degreased - otherwise, all the meticulous work so far will have been in vain.
Step #4 Install the chain
13. Install the chain with a chain tool (gentler than with a pedal stroke)
14. Carefully wipe off excess wax with a cloth
Done.
The chain is fully broken in and race-ready after just a few minutes of riding. The optimization effect should last for more than 300 kilometers - provided clean and dry riding conditions.
#5 Re-lubrication (approx. every 300 kilometers)
Grundsätzlich könnt ihr die Kette nun so lange fahren, bis sie anfängt, "unangenehme Geräusche" zu machen. Aus Erfahrung läuft sie ca. 200 Kilometer sehr leise, wird danach sukzessive lauter und benötigt frühestens - je nach den vorherrschenden Witterungsbedingungen - nach 300 Kilometern eine erste Nachbehandlung.
Schritt #5 Nachschmieren mit Silca Super Secret
- Nachschmieren immer nach dem Ende des Rides, oder wenn ihr längere Zeit nicht fahren wollt (Trocknungszeit abwarten, sonst spritzt euch das Wachs um die Ohren)
- Kette muss sauber und absolut trocken sein (Wachs und Wasser/Reinigungsmittel vermischt sich nicht)
- Kette hinten auf ein großes Ritzel legen und vorne aufs große Blatt (eine schräge Kettenlinie sorgt für die Aufnahme der maximalen Wachsmenge durch die größere Biegung/Bewegung der einzelnen Glieder)
- Boden, Felge, Reifen mit einem Tuch abdecken
- das Schmiermittel-Fläschchen aufschütteln
- das flüssige Super Secret Kettenwachs großzügig auftragen (ca. eine volle Umdrehung an der Innenseite der linken Kettenglieder und eine weitere an der Innenseite der rechten Kettenglieder; 1 Tropfen pro Seite pro Walze)
- Kette mindestens 30 Minuten bis eine Stunde trocknen lassen (besser über Nacht)
- überschüssiges Wachs mit einem Microfasertuch abwischen
Sure, here is the translated text:```After completely drying, your chain is ready for the next use. However, you should always ride the first few kilometers with care, so that it runs in perfectly in all its components.
If the chain attracts excessive dust and dirt after the first ride, it simply means too much wax was applied. The solution: Wipe off the excess along with the dirt using a microfiber cloth.
After about 1,500 kilometers, it is advisable to repeat the entire procedure (steps #1 to #4). Regular cleaning and waxing in a dip bath also significantly slows down the wear of chainrings and cassettes, saving you a lot of money. Silca even speaks of extending the lifespan of your drivetrain by 5 to 10 times.```I have kept the tags and line breaks as requested.
Attention: The chain should now only be lubricated with Silca Super Secret - under no circumstances with oils or greases.
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