Chain Waxing by Der Baranski

Even just ten years ago, hot-waxed chains were considered an eccentric quirk – nowadays, they are the state of the art. What was once ridiculed has been established through clear facts: Wax instead of oil provides measurable advantages for drivetrain performance and longevity.

Optimized Efficiency
Proven multiple times – including through recent lab tests led by engineer Robert Kühnen (published in Tour and Bike): Hot-waxed chains run significantly more smoothly than those with conventional factory lubrication or oil. While this only saves a few watts, it falls under the notorious "marginal gains," which become relevant at the latest in competitive racing.

Drastically Reduced Wear
Since wax hardly binds dirt, the abrasive material wear on cogs, chainrings, and shifting components is significantly reduced. This spares your wallet: A modern 13-speed cassette like the SRAM RED XPLR is listed at around 675 euros – every extended lifespan counts.

More cleanliness, less chaos
Wax-based lubrication leaves hardly any residue - no greasy calf tattoos, no black marks on furniture, car headliners, or mom's living room carpet. This makes waxing the chain a game-changer in terms of everyday practicality and aesthetics.

So that your start into hot waxing doesn't end in a sticky mess, here's the compact guide including experiential knowledge and everyday fails - collected, tested, and sorted out by Baranski himself. No magic, but also no room for botched work. If you're serious about it, do it right from the beginning.

1. Start with a fresh chain
Wax only adheres to truly clean metal surfaces. Used chains are contaminated with oil, grease, dust, and micro-abrasion - not a good foundation for durable wax bonds. Buy a new chain, ideally multiple ones, so you have spare material ready for swapping. The rust-proof grease film applied at the factory must be completely removed anyway.

2. Quality pays off - even with the chain
Not every chain is wax-friendly. Cheap no-name chains, especially certain KMC budget series, tend to corrode quickly - even with a clean setup. My recommendation: Shimano Ultegra or XT, SRAM Force or RED. Why? Nickel-plated, chrome-coated components, precise tolerances.

3. Race chain? Treat yourself to the extra step!
For race-day setups, we break in new chains on the indoor trainer. Goal: Polish metal surfaces, remove microparticles. Result? During the first cleaning round, a considerable brew of oil residue and debris is released. After that, the chain is given a final treatment and tailored - matching the race gearing. Tip: You can find the matching length guide here.

4. Any questions or not in the mood for DIY?
At derbaranski.shop, you'll find everything you need - from wax and tools to fully prepped chains. Not just for tech freaks, but also for anyone who prefers riding over scrubbing.

Before wax even has a chance, the factory-applied protective grease must be completely removed. This "factory preservation" primarily protects against rust in containers or warehouse shelves but has no place on a running drivetrain. Corrosion is a global issue – especially during overseas transport or long-term storage. Even SRAM chains produced in Europe come heavily coated in white grease.

Experience shows: The most common reason for failing wax performance is poor or incomplete degreasing. If you cut corners here, you'll get acoustic feedback in the form of a squeaky drivetrain after 100 kilometers at the latest. So: Carefulness pays off. And this effort – if done correctly – really only needs to be done once.

Petrol instead of miracle chemicals
Baranski swears by a simple trio: petrol, a mason jar, and a microfiber cloth. No aerosols, no fancy specialty cleaners. Just old-school, effective, and affordable. Place the factory-new chain in the jar overnight, then rinse several times until the petrol runs clear. Depending on the chain manufacturer, two to four cycles are normal – SRAM’s white factory coating is particularly stubborn. Optional: Filter old petrol through a coffee filter and reuse. Pro tip: Clean multiple chains at once, because the effort is only worth it in batches.

Brake cleaner? Nope. Acetone? Double nope.
Brake cleaner might sound practical, but it’s expensive, sometimes leaves a greasy residue, and is therefore counterproductive. And acetone? It may look like a solvent on the label, but in practice, it either leaves grease behind or treats the metal too aggressively. The result: Wax doesn’t adhere properly, residues resurface, and the chain gets dirty again after just a few kilometers.

Even though acetone reliably removes nail polish, it is simply unsuitable for grease- and oil-based residues on metal parts. Compared to white spirit, it works superficially, leaves residues, and causes wax to not adhere properly later. No wonder, then, that complaints about poor durability of waxed chains are often precisely due to this mistake.

Baranski knows the drill: As soon as the topic of poor durability comes up, it almost always turns out—acetone was involved. If you don’t believe it, take a look at the linked video and the laboratory analysis from the University of Mainz.

After cleaning with white spirit, many people then cut corners and put the chains into hot wax after letting them air dry. You can do it that way, and the result might be good enough for most, but here, we are aiming for the gold standard.

Before the chain is allowed to take its well-deserved wax bath, every last film of ultrasonic cleaner and alkaline solution must be removed. Because: What looks clean often still feels slightly greasy. Baranski relies on isopropanol in a mason jar at this stage – simple, effective, and residue-free. The alcohol reliably removes the last traces of grease and surfactants and evaporates without leaving any residue.

Pro tip from bicycle production
It’s no coincidence that isopropanol is also a standard in bike assembly: It removes grease films without attacking paint, plastic, or rubber. Large manufacturers consume tons of it – and not without reason.

No experiments with leftovers
What you don’t need now: Well-meaning improvisations like “I still have some Muc-Off degreaser lying around.” At this stage, what’s really needed is clinical cleanliness – not “just a quick wipe.” If you cut corners now, you’ll ruin the wax adhesion and later have to troubleshoot a squeaky chain all over again.

Disposal: Clear rule, not down the drain
The used cleaning fluids belong in hazardous waste collection – so off to the recycling center. Baranski is regularly asked if you can just pour it down the toilet or sink. Clear answer: No. Even if it’s liquid, it’s still chemicals. Anyone who does that should have a chat with wastewater treatment plant mechanics – and, for that matter, with their own conscience.

If everything has been done correctly, the freshly waxed chain will initially be as stiff as a board after cooling. This is not a sign of a mistake but, on the contrary, a quality feature. Paraffin completely penetrates the joints and thoroughly coats the pins, bushings, and rollers. The result: a chain that could easily be used as a ruler.

For breaking in, Baranski recommends a simple plastic tube. Thread the chain, bend it, push it through – repeat. This ensures initial flexibility and prevents stress during installation. After that, it can go on the bike. Then it’s time to pedal lightly for a few minutes and break in the gears. Important: If there’s a slight rattling at first, don’t panic and start turning the adjustment screws. After a short running time, everything settles in again, usually better than before.

If you ask the manufacturers, one thing is clear: their product is, of course, the best, often even “by miles.” Backed by in-house tests, with pretty diagrams and lots of self-praise. In Baranski’s head, the Bullshit-App reliably starts ringing.

Real talk about wax selection
There are a few duds on the shelf, usually recognizable by exaggerated advertising claims and fancy packaging. However, if you’re fishing in the upper-quality segment, you’ll find fairly similar formulations from the established brands: paraffin plus additives like tungsten disulfide or molybdenum disulfide – that’s it. There are differences, but no revolutions.

Baranski’s long-time favorite: Molten Speed Wax
For years, he has sworn by the U.S. product Molten Speed Wax – simple to use, long-lasting in performance, and extremely durable with proper chain preparation. Fairly priced, with the additives making up most of the value, not the paraffin itself.

High-end on demand: Dry Fluid Formula S Chain-Ceramic
For his pre-configured chains, Baranski takes it a step further: Dry Fluid Formula S Chain-Ceramic. Developed in collaboration with Berlin-based lubricant manufacturer Dry Fluid, it’s based on a modified wax base, lasts significantly longer, doesn’t need a “break-in” period, and runs silky smooth from the start. The refill partner: Dry Fluid High-End Chain Lubricant – also available in the shop.

If you want to dive deeper or simply need a restock: In the lubricants section of derbaranski.shop, you’ll find everything on the topic of wax, lubricants, and useful additions. And why re-lubrication remains an issue despite hot waxing will be explained in the next section.

Once waxed doesn’t mean forever waxed – but almost. According to Baranski, those who do it right treat their chain exclusively with hot wax. The best approach is a rotation system: several prepared chains in circulation, and after every 300–500 kilometers, a fresh one goes on the bike, while the other goes back into the wax bath. By dipping it again in warm paraffin, old dust is removed, and a new lubricant film is formed. Sure, some dirt ends up in the bath – but with around 3-4 g of wax per chain, minimal residues are easily manageable. For particularly thorough cases, it’s recommended to first place the chain in gasoline for light wax removal.

What is no longer recommended: The good old cooking pot. Instead of a clean wax film, you get a mixture of dirt, steam, and paraffin residues that can no longer be rinsed off properly.

Liquid lubricants – the practical emergency solution
Sometimes life isn’t a workshop. On tour, at training camp, or when you just don’t feel like tinkering, it’s okay to drip lubricant onto the chain. But please, do it systematically and with quality. Baranski’s recommendation: Dry Fluid based on alcohol – thin, capillary-active, and on par with hot wax in reviews.

No longer on the radar: Wax-based drip lubes like Squirt. Too thick, too short-lasting, too prone to attracting dirt. For those who still want to try: Warm the product (heater!), shake well, and apply correctly – shift diagonally, applying it to the upper area of the cassette while backpedaling.

Important: Let it sit overnight and wipe off excess lubricant the next morning. But be warned: If you use liquid lubricants, you’ll have to let go of the dream of a sparkling clean chain. Even “dry” drip lubes leave visible residues.

Wax in rain, mud, and frost? Absolutely.
Waxed chains aren’t just for fair-weather cyclists. They perform solidly even in bad weather, as long as you don’t leave your bike wet and dirty in a corner after a ride. Mud and water can easily be rinsed off with a garden hose, then quickly wiped with a cloth. Done. Rust? Only if neglected.

And the rumor that hot wax fails in frost? According to Baranski, it’s complete nonsense. Tested down to -12 °C without any issues. If you need it colder than that, you should probably worry more about your toes and fingers than about your chain.