Trail Safari in Ticino

Rain, again. But now it's enough. A look at the weather map promises ideal MTB conditions in Ticino, the southernmost and warmest part of Switzerland. Not for nothing is Ticino also fondly called the sunroom of Switzerland.
Nestled between the Alps and lakes, the Swiss canton offers a particularly mild climate. Thus, gentians bloom on the alpine meadows, while one can enjoy a cappuccino under palm trees on lake promenades. In addition, there are 1,000 more good reasons to take a closer look at the Ticino mountain bike classics – starting with the fantastic mountain scenery, through the culinary delights of a border region (Italy greets you in several corners), to typical Swiss conveniences like bike shuttles by bus and train.

Filled to the brim with happiness hormones, we ride into the center of Airolo after this atmospheric tour start. The history of Airolo is heavily influenced by transit traffic. Nevertheless, the small, pretty marketplace invites you to a cappuccino breakfast with brioche. The time of day also fits perfectly: 10:00 AM.
Meanwhile, the thermometer has already climbed to summer-like temperatures. It's time to swap the long-sleeve jerseys for short-sleeve ones and begin the ascent to Capanna Cadagno, our accommodation for the night.

The initially paved and then gravel ascent runs rather monotonously through the forest until it reaches the mountain station of the Ritom funicular. It is one of the steepest funiculars in the world with a gradient of 87% and was built in 1921.
Those who want to skip the previous ascent can also take the train from Piotta with their bike and comfortably shuttle 780 meters in altitude upwards.

It doesn't take long before the Ticino high valley Val Piora with its natural highlights completely captivates us. On the surface of the artificially dammed turquoise Ritom Lake, the surrounding mountain panorama is reflected. Fascinated by the unique natural spectacle, we pass the body of water on the left-hand side.
At a wild waterfall, the gravel road becomes steeper and takes us through the 2,000-meter-high valley past hundreds of cows to the natural lake Cadagno. We immediately notice the fishermen who cast their lines into the water from their camping chairs set up on the shore. Initially, it's a grotesque sight for us amidst this alpine landscape. But it seems to be worth it, as a chatty angler reveals to us.
In Lake Cadagno, there are more fish than in other mountain lakes. This great abundance of fish has been known for centuries, and scientists from all over Switzerland and abroad have studied the water, leading to exciting findings: The lake consists of three different water layers that do not mix. The uppermost water layer contains granite minerals and is very rich in oxygen - an ideal habitat for the fish. The middle water layer is interspersed with a sulfur bacterium and is therefore pink.

Freshly fed with expert knowledge about the unique mountain lake, we reach the Capanna Cadagno hut. We are warmly welcomed by the host Idalgo Ferretti on the panoramic terrace. On the menu, we find traditional dishes like polenta and the spicy Piora cheese. We enjoy the hearty meal in the late afternoon light on the sun terrace.
The Cadagno hut was built in 1934 and fully renovated in 2013. Since then, modern masonry encloses the old structure like a shell – cool! In the evening, we treat ourselves to a warm shower before we fall into our beds dead tired at 11 PM for the hut's quiet time.

At the top of the pass, the Passo del Sole lives up to its name. The sky clears, and the morning sun makes the mountain slopes glow, with their rugged peaks and mighty dimensions, they could just as well be in the Dolomites.
Finally, the trail descent through the Valle Santa Maria lies at our feet. As far as the eye can see, the single trail winds through a sea of flowers, past streams to a small mountain lake, until it disappears behind a crest. Now it’s time to lower the saddle and enjoy.

Initially, it goes technically over razor-sharp rocks through blocked passages at S2-S3 level, accompanied by the breathtaking panorama towards the mountain lake. After that, the natural trail gains more and more flow until a warning sign points us to a pushing section. In this part, the ground is very loose and slippery with a risk of falling.
After a few meters, the trail continues in the usual manner to Campra; sometimes with super flow and rhythm, then again with tight curves, high steps, and short steep drops. "Alpine Riding Pleasure Deluxe" keeps shooting through my mind.

The final stretch towards Olivone with slate rock slabs along a gorge gives the trail an alpine character again, and I wish this spectacle would never end. That's why we decide shortly before Olivone to sacrifice our remaining battery for another trail loop.

We pedal 600 meters of elevation on the asphalted pass road lined with rustic stone houses up to the small picturesque ski area of Nara. From here, a trail named Cancuri leads down to Acquarossa.
The forest and meadow trail makes our brakes run hot. Partly in a direct line of descent, it pulls into the valley and repeatedly crosses the road until it finally serves up a few technical switchbacks.
From now on, it's all about making distance towards the Biasca train station, where the Interregio to Airolo stops hourly. After 40 minutes of travel time, we take the postbus in Airolo, which brings us back to the Gotthard Pass, where we parked our car.

The next day we relocate to Lake Lugano, the southernmost tip of Ticino. The lake, situated in a west-east orientation between Lake Maggiore and Lake Como, extends its arms all the way to Italy, and thanks to the Mediterranean-influenced climate, citrus fruits even grow here, and you can sunbathe under palm trees.
Despite its Mediterranean flair, the alpine world is just a stone's throw away, so we have chosen (and adapted) a mountain bike classic in the hinterland of Lugano: the Monte Bar loop.

The starting point is the village of Tesserete with its impressive parish church and Romanesque-style bell tower. Here begins the ascent on the low-traffic paved road through the Val Colla.
We follow the signs towards San Lucio. The incline increases more and more on the now gravel road, so it's time to shift to the left.
At the Capanna San Lucio with its well-known chapel, we have conquered the majority of the elevation gain for today's tour. Now follows the pièce de résistance: a panoramic high-altitude path with constant ups and downs towards Monte Bar.

This unique crossing makes our mountain biking hearts beat faster. Sometimes rocky, then fast and flowy again, also predominantly exposed, so you must constantly keep your front wheel precisely under control on the narrow single trail.
In the distance, the mountain hut Monte Bar, beautifully situated on a hill, already appears - the ideal location for our lunch break.

The modern and futuristic hut was only built in 2016 and stands out with its distinctly square architecture. The concrete ground floor and the upper elements made of larch wood create an extraordinary ambiance in a compact building volume. Mountain bikers have also been considered. A storage room for bikes with charging facilities for e-bikes as well as a small workshop deserve the label "Bike friendly".
In the dining room with huge panoramic windows, we enjoy spaghetti with homemade porcini mushroom sauce. From here - depending on the weather and cloud conditions - you have a magnificent view that stretches from Monte Gazzirola over the Denti della Vecchia and the Gulf of Lugano to the four-thousanders of the Valais Alps and Monte Rosa in the west. A perfect place to relax and recharge for the rest of the downhill.

The trail leads us over a grassy slope in a smooth ride to the viewpoint Motto della Croce - a fantastic panoramic summit with a huge iron cross at an altitude of 1,255 meters. We look down at the roofs of Bellinzona and the Gulf of Lugano all the way to the hills of Malcantone and Monte Tamaro.
After a photo break, we surf again on a flowy traverse to Davrosio and then over a blocked S3 trail next to a stream bed back to Tesserete. What a legendary trail treat, which we review again over a cool beer in the baroque beer garden of our Hotel Tesserete.

After these two extensive alpine tours, the next day we are drawn to the local mountain of Lugano - Monte Brè.
From the outskirts of Lugano, the historic funicular railways from 1908 ascend in two sections to the sunniest mountain in Switzerland. We use the second railway segment from Suvigliana station, as bike transport is only possible from here.

At the mountain station, we are overwhelmed by the postcard panorama: the view of Lake Lugano with the city of the same name, opposite the other local mountain San Salvatore, and to the west the Valais Alps.
However, we want to go one level higher, namely to Alpe Bolla.